With a societal ideology such as female empowerment as the label’s backbone, APHID LONDON immortalizes confidence and strength through effortless and well-thought-of designer threads.
Founded back in the booming age of minimalism which was 2014, Bernadette Bull and Carl Starling came together to create a sleek and versatile label of their own that caters solely to women. “It was always a dream for both of us to launch our own label and share our aesthetic sensibilities with the world,” they continue, “we discovered a unique professional connection, which we built over the years and culminated in APHID being formed. Inspired by a female archetype we identified with, whom we couldn’t reach within the private label business, we saw a niche in the industry – expanding upon our dark aesthetic and love of form and structure, we launched APHID.” With a strong name hailing from one of Mother Nature’s insect species—a strictly female wingless insect that can propagate without the help of any male insect, APHID flawlessly executes power and strength through the geometry and structure of each manufactured garment.
“All women who have a strong sense of who they are, who are able to take our pieces and interpret them in their own way, making APHID work for themselves and the lives they lead.”
Although the clothing label revolves around women and what a woman is, Bull and Starling have no specific female muse in mind for APHID. “There isn’t one specific epitome of our brand – our audience is incredibly varied, and we love this. All women who have a strong sense of who they are, who are able to take our pieces and interpret them in their own way, making APHID work for themselves and the lives they lead.” Despite no muse chosen, APHID stays true to its female ideologies in regards to business and societal matters.
“We believe in being able to do what makes you happy — as long as it doesn’t hurt anybody in the process. We believe in total equality. A lot of how APHID manifests can be interpreted as feminist, however we wouldn’t describe our brand as any one thing,” they state, “We design for women with their own opinions, whether they self-identify as feminist or not. Whether they are politically driven or not, they are independent women — free thinking and empowered. We are inclusive of everyone and propose a message of strength and power with our clothing and hope that women who wear our clothes feel visible and imbued with the confidence.”
“We are inclusive of everyone and propose a message of strength and power with our clothing.”
Translating character, mind, and strength that embodies the woman of today, this London-based womenswear meticulously chooses fabrics and constructs designs that both represent minimalism and the distinct definition of the female generation. “We’re always thinking about how we want women to feel in our clothes, which is empowered and confident. That’s inherent to who we are as designers and as a brand trying to deliver on an ideology. We believe in the strength, beauty and power of women as much as we do equality for all; regardless of gender, race, faith or sexuality. If women feel positive in APHID, we know we’re doing what we set out to achieve.”
“We’re always thinking about how we want women to feel in our clothes, which is empowered and confident.”
With the latest fad and trend season for the year 2018 out to the public, APHID launches their Spring/Summer collection 2018 as an essential step towards the brand’s development. “SS18 sees a continuation of our established graphic handwriting and on-going exploration of structure, construction and cut. In previous seasons we had used heavy, bonded technical fabrications and for our second SS season we deliberately kept fabrics unexpectedly light. Deconstructed, frayed textures and hemlines gave surface interest whilst a focus on gathering and asymmetry subverted the traditional notion of structure,” they explain.
“Our references extend from Harley Weir’s ‘HOME’ photographic collation to the sculpture of Robert Morris and the processes exhibited in Brancusi’s studio. For SS18, we examined the concept of deconstruction and reformation at a pivotal time for the brand growth and aesthetic, finding newness in what has come before; taking apart, reshaping.” There’s an infestation in the fashion industry that can’t be controlled, and APHID London flies to the top of the food chain with a promise to live up to their namesake – to spread strength in between each thread and grow all on their own.